Japanese Maple Pruning: Where to Prune Maple Trees for ‘Healthy Growth’ | Techy Kings


As the leaves fall and the outline of Japanese maple trunks emerges during the winter months, it can be a challenge to get the clips out and get to work. These trees are among the most difficult and complex to cut. It takes skill and talent to work with these trees and to shape, express and encourage their naturally beautiful nature. That is why gardeners recommend the rules to be followed when cutting these garden vegetables

When will the Japanese maps be cut?

According to horticulturists at Moana Nursery, Japanese maples can be pruned any time of the year, but “the best time for heavy pruning” is in winter before the leaves begin to swell and in early summer before temperatures reach 80 degrees Fahrenheit (26 degrees). Celsius).

He explained: “The tree has no leaves so winter is easy, which makes it easier to see the structure of the branch and make the right cuts.”

“At the beginning of summer, the presence of leaves will help you estimate the exact amount needed to see the structure of your tree.”

The goal of pruning is to encourage the tree’s natural growth habit. Experts point out that pruning your Japanese maple to alter its natural growth pattern or to cut it back is not beneficial in the long run. They said, “The tree grows faster and becomes more unruly.”

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“You can return it to a bud, a live lateral branch (small branches that grow from the main branch) or to a branch neck, the swelling where the branch attaches to the main stem.”

The experts explained that gardeners should avoid cutting at the neck of the branch and instead should always cut two centimeters above the neck. They said, “Cuts to the main stem or branch neck can often be an entry point for disease and pests.”

So should gardeners prune their focal trees? According to the horticulturist, attention should be focused on the narrows, otherwise known as sprouts at the base.

The experts explained: “Guards are the main place to cut on Japanese maps. These are ‘new growth’ that usually emerge from the ground around the base of the stem or base. These steal valuable nutrients from your tree for themselves, so they must be pruned for healthy growth.

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Dead or dead branches should be removed from trees. “Cleaning up dead or dead branches can help prevent the spread of disease, focus your tree’s nutrients and growth on healthy limbs, and promote new, healthy growth,” says The Gardener.

Transverse branches should also be cut because they often cross each other or interfere with the growth of the main stem. The wounds created by rubbing allow insects and diseases to enter the tree.

The last branches that need to be removed are odd angles. “They are branches that grow inward or go in the wrong direction,” the experts say.

“These include branches that grow in the middle of the tree, down on an upright form, or up on a weeping tree.

Experts say one of the keys to making Japanese maps look their best is separating the branches into overlapping layers, like a lattice. They advise: “With this in mind, look for the parallel branches. Reducing these branches will define the structure of the tree and increase interest.

“Work from the bottom up and from the inside out. Take your time and periodically step back and check your work from different angles. Follow each branch up and look at the tree from the bottom up to determine what and where to cut. If you’re not sure, don’t cut.”

When pruning, it is important for gardeners to make sure their pruning tools are sharp and clean, because dirty pruning can spread diseases to newly opened wounds. Hand shears, lopper shears, or bypass pruners are best for cutting branches as thick as your middle finger or less, depending on the needs. Trimming is best for anything large.

Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection when cutting. It doesn’t look dangerous, but the branches can surprise you with good goggles and the squirrels are sharp.


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